Sunday, July 17, 2011

We come from the land of the ice and snow

So, I have a lot to say, but it could get boring in one post, so I'll make it two. Second installment tomorrow. I'll start where I left off (see the last post).

After leaving las vegas, we drove to bishop. I had the bright idea to stave off altitude sickness and dehydration by making a concoction of vitamin water and water. We drank over a gallon of this on the drive, stopping approximately every forty miles to relive our over-extended bladders. It made for a slow trip and a lot of very happy desert vegetation.

We picked up our permit at the Bishop USFS Ranger Station. Our 60 mile, 6 day trip was called "ambitious" (note: most people are capable of crawling 10 miles a day). Warnings of postholing (falling through the snow up to knees/hips/head) for miles on end, raging streams, packs of raving mad yeti, icy passes, French Canadians, and overall misery were a little sobering. This is what rangers are paid to do, no matter how useless, unnecessary, or annoying their comments are. Being industrious MIT students we didn't let this scare us and went for a fortifying sushi dinner. We laid off the sake, though.

We packed for six days, figuring if we weren't halfway to the end by day three, we would turn around. We walked up to Piute Pass. Passed a very happy retiree and his very unhappy wife about to start an 8-day trip. Some snow, frozen lakes, blah blah. So far the snowmageddon of the Sierras was a no-show.
The view from Piute Pass into Humphrey's Basin

Snow does make sticking to established trails a bit difficult, so we had a bit of "choose your own adventure" down to below the snowline. It was a tame (but very wet, due to all the melting snow) adventure. Met some duffers who told us of horrific stream crossings to come. We were now intimidated and prepared ourselves for the worst. Turns out, we accidentally crossed the tsunami-creek without even knowing it. So the lesson learned is that if someone is wearing a bug net and there aren't any bugs they might not know what they are talking about.

So, day 1, 17 miles. No one swept away. Not one post hole. No yeti (or French Canadians, Johanna!). Total people count 3.

Day 2. Mostly hours of amazing hiking followed by a moment of sheer, utter, freezing terror.
Hiked up to the Evolution Valley. Yes, Virginia, there is a Mt. Darwin. The sheer, utter, freezing terror part was crossing Evolution Creek. We had done this once before, on our JMT hike. It was deep then. This year it was deeper.

Evolution "Creek". A good way to die.

We crossed in McClure meadow. Not at the waterfall above (duh?). This crossing (a easier, safer alternative to the regular crossing) was icy-cold and up to Kyle's thighs. Watching him cross, I gave up any pretense and took off my pants. If I was going to die, it was going to be in my $20 patagonia underwear with my pants wrapped around my neck. I stepped in. It was bone-numbing. Another step. Then another. At this point, I was up to my stomach in freezing, fast-flowing water. I felt much less like an adventurer and much more like a half-frozen moron. I lost my footing, then regained it and faced up stream. Screw you, Evolution Creek!! I took refuge on a partially submerged log in the middle of the creek. Groaning in pain as blood returned to my croc-clad feet- Kyle shouted for me to go for it or something equally encouraging. I was pretty happy on the log actually, but he had dinner in his pack so I had no choice but to continue. Back in above my waist and to the other side, followed by several minutes of primeval, deep utterances, but absolutely no swearing. None at all. Absent for the entirety of the trip so far, mosquitoes made an appearance to add insult to freezing injury.

So that was the crux of the day, if you will. Pants back on, shoes back on and some chocolate in my belly and we cruised up to Evolution Lake for an early finish to the day. Passing PCT hikers had warned us that Muir Pass was 5 snow-bound miles up from the lake so we decided to hit it in the morning, when the snow would be firm. We camped at Evolution Lake.

So ends day 2. No postholes (no snow, actually). No one swept away. ~12 PCT hikers (a few could be mistaken for Yeti). Not even a trace of French Canadian scat (cigarette butts). ~12-15 miles.

The view from our tent. So worth it.

WARNING!!! KISSING BELOW!!

The perfect place to be with my favorite person in the world.




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